NEWS & EVENTS

 

In The News: Palm Desert resident chases one last dream before his time runs out

 By John Hardie

There are many opinions as to the correct way to string a guitar. I’ve been using this particular method for several years and have been pleased with the results.

Here’s how I do it.


Things you’ll need:                                                                      
-A new set of strings with gauges identical to the ones you’re replacing. (If you install different gauges, you’ll need to adjust your truss rod/bridge/tremolo springs.)
-A string winder.
-A string cutter (not a wire cutter but a specific guitar tool). -Safety goggles. Strings can break unexpectedly and you don’t want to take the chance.

Step One: Remove the old strings.
If you have a fixed-bridge guitar, you can take all the strings off, clean your fretboard and install new strings without any additional steps. If your guitar has a tremolo system, you should either remove and replace strings one at a time or block the tremolo so that it stays in its normal position during the procedure.

Note: I usually remove the new strings from the package and lay them out in order. If you don’t have a guitar workstation, place a towel or blanket on a table, fold a hand towel a couple of times and place it under the neck or your guitar.

Step Two: Install the new string(s).
Thread the string through your bridge assembly, making sure it hasn’t snagged somewhere in the bowels of your guitar. If your headstock is of the six-on-a-side variety, pull the string two tuning posts past the one that you’re using and cut the string.

If your instrument is three-on a side, pull the string a little more than one tuning post before cutting 

Step Three: Thread the end of your string through the post hole until the end justpeeks out then put a kink in the string right against the post to stop it from sliding back out.

Now, with one hand keep the string tensioned and turn the string winder so that the wind goes (a) on the inside of the post, and (b) down the post.

Step Four: Tune to pitch. I do this by ear after each string and then use my tuner when I’m done.

Step Five: (optional) I like to stretch my strings so that they stay in tune right away. Insert your hand under each string and stretch it at four or five points along the fretboard. If you omit
this step, it will take a half-dozen tunings before the strings stretch out on their own.

The benefit of this method is that you don’t have to snip the strings after you install them. I’ve seen people miss the end of the string and snip the actual string resulting in a string under extreme tension suddenly releasing right in your face. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!!!

 

 

 

BREAKING POINT
By John Hardie

For years I had a problem with breaking strings. I would put a new set of strings on my main guitar, “Roach,” and--three out of four times--would break the 2^nd string during the first song.

Now, when I restring Roach, I perform an extra step. This step has resulted in my never, ever breaking a string. Have I piqued your interest? Hope so. Read on:

When you tune your guitar or bend a note or apply vibrato, you’re stretching the string in question and causing friction at the nut and at the bridge.

 The bridge on electric guitars is made of metal. Imagine that same length of string constantly sawing back and forth over a metal saddle and you can see why eventually you could break a string.

Nuts used to be made of bone but nowadays it’s usually some kind of plastic; smoother and softer than metal saddles and kinder on your strings, sure, but that’s not where the problem lies.

If the nut slot isn’t cut exactly right for the particular gauge of string that you use, the string can “bind” in the nut. Ever heard a pinging sound when you tune? That’s string binding. Over time, the string will be weakened and………SNAP!

There are a few things you can do to eliminate this problem:

1). Replace your nut and bridge saddles with Graph Tech parts (www.graphtech.com). These replacement nuts and saddles are made from a special compound that virtually removes string friction from the equation.

2). Use an abrasive cord made by Mitchell and available through Stewart MacDonald (www.stewmac.com) or a nut file to smooth the edges of the offending parts.

3). Finally, my extra step.

I discovered Nut Sauce several years ago and have not broken a string since. Nut Sauce is a special lubricant that is applied to the nut and bridge saddles prior to installing new strings. It cushions the string and totally eliminates that nasty friction.

Want to try it? Just let me know.